FAQs - Frequently Asked Questions
What is the rider weight limit for your wheels?
What kind of weight are these wheels stress tested to?
Do your suggested rider weight limits include the weight of the bike?
I am close to the rider weight limit for the wheels is that OK?
Please see product pages or click here for more details on rider weight limits. We obviously test the wheels well beyond this limit and they must remain undamaged after the test. More info on our testing is available click here
Can you offer custom specifications not shown in your current range?
Our wheels are ordered and built in minimum quantity batches of each model, with no customization possible, and this volume means Hunt wheels provide extremely competitive specification, durability, performance and low weight. However, we are always listening to customer feedback and looking at types of performance riding that are not well served by the wheel market so there are always new wheelsets in development and testing. The best way to keep up to date with our latest product releases and news is through our weekly Hunt Email Journal click here.Update: Due to high-demand we now offer rims and hubs as separate items so you can have your wheels built to your own spec by your local wheel-builder. Please see the Accessories and Spares page.
Can you offer custom colours or graphics?
Our wheels, rim and hubs are ordered and built in minimum quantity batches of the same model and colour, with no customization possible, and this volume allows our products to offer extremely competitive specification and low weight. We have designed the graphics and colourways to be understated and yet enhance any bike they may be fitted to. We are always looking at other options though and this may change in the future.
How should I fit 4Season Disc Hub Axle adapters?
Fitting Front 12 or 15mm adapters:
1. Remove wheel from bike and remove any disc rotors and disc rotor adapters if fitted.
2. Fit one side at a time
3. Pull out the QR adapter cap with your hands, no tools required.
4. Clean the thread on the inside of the hub body with a rag
5. Insert the central axle sized cap into the hub end (longer one on the disc side, shorter on the non disc side). This should be done with the widest part against the bearing
6. Then slide over one of the threaded lock rings with the two small dimples.
7. Using a small hex key (e.g. 2.5mm) inserted in one of the dimples spin the threaded lock ring into the thread on the hub until it bottoms out on the thread.
8. Repeat on the other side
9. This is now ready to fit your fork and axle
Please note: The axle cup will be held within 0.5mm of the bearing hole and inserting and tightening your bolt thru axle will apply the correct amount of preload tension to securely hold all parts in place.
Fitting rear axle adapters
1. Remove wheel from bike and remove any disc rotors, disc rotor adapters, and cassette if fitted.
2. Using a 17mm spanner on the drive side end of the axle and a 5mm hex key in the non-drive side axle loosen and fully unscrew the black non-drive side axle cap
3. Pull out the axle completely from the drive side
4. Insert the new axle adapter into the freehub and main hub body
5. Tighten on the new black non-drive side axle cap using the hex-key and 17mm spanner. Tighten to approximately 3 Nm equivalent to slightly more than the pressure that can be applied to the short end of the Hex key.
6. Fit to you bike as normal.
How do you change the freehub body on the Hunt Race Season hubs/wheels?
1) Use 5mm hex keys in both end caps to remove one of them. Remember the order and orientation of any spacers/caps.
2) You only need to remove the freehub side end cap so if that comes off first then go straight to step 4.
3) If the non freehub side end cap came off first use a 10mm hex key in the axle with a 5mm key in the remaining end cap to remove it.
4) Slide off the freehub body.
5) There is a rubber seal between the freehub body and the hub shell. The new freehub body usually comes with one of these as well. They are the same for Campag and Shimano. It will only need replacing if worn. Make sure you find this and ensure you don't put the new freehub body on with an extra seal if you are leaving the original in place.
6) Take the metal spacer out of the centre of the original freehub and place it in the new freehub body.
7) Slide on the new freehub body, turn it gently to help it slide in place.
8) Replace the end caps and spacers and tighten the end caps using the same hex keys as you did to remove them.
How loud is the clicking noise from the freehub mechanisms on your wheels?
The freewheels on our hubs are either 3 or 4 pawl circular spring design as found on many high end hubs, they are neither super loud nor too quiet, just somewhere nicely in between the loudest and quietest freehubs on the market.
How do your hubs compare to other leading brands?
Our hubs are produced by some of the world's leading high end hub manufacturers. They are based in Taiwan and produce for many of the cycling industry's most respected wheel and hub brands. High end hubs and rims for most brands are produced Taiwan too. We have also had our bearings upgraded in spec to high precision sealed cartridge units by EZO of Japan. The hubs also feature extra external seals so they last extremely well in poor conditions. Our UK winter and rolling cobbled road testing have been extensive and we're very confident they'll give you a great service life. Of course we are always here to support the product and will go above and beyond to make sure our customers are happy with our products.
Is the Mason x Hunt 4 Season disc wheelset suitable for gravel/cyclocross use?
Yes you can use the Mason x Hunt 4 Season disc wheelset on cyclocross bikes. The bearings are well sealed so they will withstand dirt and water associated with off-road use not to mention the 23mm wide rim which will withstand the extra knocks and bumps that come with off road riding. The benefits of using a tubeless ready rim are especially enhanced off road as you are able to run much lower tyre pressures to increase grip without the chance of pinch punctures.
What should I do if I get a puncture when running tubeless?
If you get a puncture, it may seal straight away, often this has happened and the rider doesn’t even notice anything. If it doesn’t then stop the bike and rotate the wheel so the puncture is at the bottom and has a pool of sealant sitting above it. This will provide the best chance for the sealant to seal the hole, sometimes we even put our fingers gently over the hole to slow the airflow and give the sealant a better chance of sealing.
If the hole is too big to be sealed by the sealant the next step we use is to carry a tubeless tyre repair kit, they provide gummy strips that can be pushed into holes without removing the tyres, we’ve found they work very well for larger punctures which won’t seal with sealant alone.
Next step is to just put a tube in the tyre as normal. Pushing the tyre bead into the centre well of the rim will make it easier to remove the bead. Obviously, remove the tubeless valve before doing this, the valve lock nut may be tight to create a good seal so pushing with your thumb on the back of the rubber valve base can release the pressure and make it easier to unscrew the lock nut.
You should check your tyre for sharp objects inside and out before putting a tube in, just a you would with a normal tyre.
How do I set-up my wheels with tubeless tyres, do you have any tips?
We've written a short blog and filmed the way we set-up tubeless tyres so you can pick-up all the hints and tips. Please click here to view it.
Do you offer a crash replacement scheme?
Yes we are pleased to support Hunt riders with 30% discount on crash replacement wheels as long as the original wheels are returned to us. Crash replacement applies for the original owner, for the first 3 years of ownership from the original order date and is not applicable for normal wear and tear.